Praise for Lanterna but dig at the town

MON - national fish and chip contest host , food critic Jay Rayner
MON - national fish and chip contest host , food critic Jay Rayner

A SCARBOROUGH restaurant has been praised in a Sunday newspaper – while at the same time having a dig at the town..

Food critic Jay Rayner visited Lanterna in Queen Street and said that it was a place to enjoy a “life-affirming meal”.

However he described the town being down on its luck and admitted that he would be “pelted with outrage and fury from locals”.

He said: “An early-evening wander around the faded, desperate grandeur of Scarborough, dodging horizontal drunks and the toothless dog owners barking more than their pets, made this stalwart Italian restaurant feel less like a place for dinner than a refuge.”

Mr Rayner added the fact that Giorgio Alessio had chosen to cook his solid brand of Italian food here, and keep on cooking it, showed commitment.