A Stroll With Stu - a walk around Whitby and Ruswarp

I half intended starting off with a rant about politicians blethering on (with fingers crossed behind their backs) about “the good common sense of the British people”, the cutting edge analysis of current affairs by people with a degree from the University of Facebook, creative eyesight tests, and the link between optimism, incompetence and the scope of Excel spreadsheets – but I won’t.
The view of Ruswarp from the viaduct.The view of Ruswarp from the viaduct.
The view of Ruswarp from the viaduct.

Instead, this little walk represents three ‘firsts’ for me. The first time I’ve been back to Whitby since February, some paths in Whitby I’ve never done before, and my first crossing of the new bridge on the east pier.

I started by jumping off the train at Ruswarp, but you can make it a circular walk from Whitby by taking the path behind the Co-op that runs between the river and the railway.

Hide Ad
Hide Ad

Walk up the hill towards Whitby and take a flagged path on your right between the butcher’s and the 17th Century Ruswarp Hall.

Whitby Cemetery chapel.Whitby Cemetery chapel.
Whitby Cemetery chapel.

Wind your way into open country before climbing up steps through woodland – alive with birdsong and busy squirrels – to turn right at a kissing gate signed “Whitby Marina and Cinder Track”. After a few minutes, drop down steps onto the track bed of the old railway line that linked the Town and Westcliff stations.

The route drops steeply away to your right, but it is not a public footpath and I think fizzles out in the trees further down.

Take the steps back up the other side and 100 yards later, turn right onto the higher level cinder track (tarmac actually) to soon cross Larpool viaduct.

Hide Ad
Hide Ad

It is impossible not to stop and admire the superb views on either side from the 120 feet high vantage point. I particularly like the panorama on the Ruswarp side, with the moors above the Esk Valley in the distance and the railway and coffee-coloured river down below.

The detailed map of the route.The detailed map of the route.
The detailed map of the route.

Turn left on the other side, heading along Larpool Lane towards Whitby.

This is a busy little short cut to Ruswarp, so take care until you reach the pavement beyond the entrance to Larpool Hall.

Carry on down the road until you reach a new development on your left where the architect had a bad day at the office, and turn right into Whitby Cemetery.

Hide Ad
Hide Ad

Now, I’m not a taphophile (someone who takes an interest in cemeteries and tombstones) but in these worrying times two of them struck a bit of a chord with me.

The old bus sign in Ruswarp.The old bus sign in Ruswarp.
The old bus sign in Ruswarp.

The first was of a 24-year old artillery corporal who died at the end of October 1918 – just a few weeks before the end of World War One, and two graves up, a man who died in 1885 along with “two children who died in infancy”.

Makes you think that a bit about the inconvenience of our current restrictions.

Go straight through the very impressive arches of the Chapel of Rest, and out the other side onto the Scarborough Road.

Hide Ad
Hide Ad

Cross straight over and down St. Peter’s Road. Somewhere round here – I may have mentioned this before – I once took part in a brutal football match in the North Riding Sunday Cup.

Whitby’s piers and the new bridge.Whitby’s piers and the new bridge.
Whitby’s piers and the new bridge.

Amid all the fighting, a game of football occasionally broke out, but I most remember thinking “big mistake, lads” when the fishermen picked on the smallest lad in our team.

He was also slightly mad and laid out three of the opposition before an almighty brawl erupted, with the referee frantically tooting on his whistle and waving red cards at anyone who took the trouble to look up.

At the end, the home team manager took our gaffer to one side, told us that they had laid on a buffet back at the club and they would give us 20 minutes to eat it and leave, before they went back there themselves with reinforcements. I think we declined and went to the chippy!

Hide Ad
Hide Ad

Go right down to the end of the road to find a narrow alley between gardens on your left, to follow a pretty green path above Spital Beck.

This drops you onto the quayside road – Church Street – which you can follow for a good mile, down the cobbled section, below the 199 steps, past Fortune’s kipper house and down Henrietta Street (Henrietta was the wife of Nathaniel Cholmley MP) until you reach a concrete slope leading to the east pier.

The new bridge linking the two sections of stone pier, looks flimsy in comparison to its surroundings, but it took my weight so it will probably last centuries.

It was a lovely calm day on my visit and I thoroughly enjoyed the unusual views of the East Cliff, the river entrance and the autumn sun reflecting on the harbour waters and Tate Hill sands, along which you can walk back to Church Street to find some covid-friendly refreshments.

This walk can be done as part of your permitted daily exercise during the national lockdown but please abide by the latest coronavirus restrictions.

Related topics: