What Finland taught me about happiness - the happiest country in the world

As we age, we come to understand happiness not just as a feeling, but as an aspiration - the ultimate aspiration - the most humble of longings and a state we should seek and preserve by the way we conduct our lives. The term has been so deeply digested into our vocabulary that it is almost too familiar, that we rarely consider its complexity and what it means beyond its most basic definition.

Finland was recently named the ‘Happiest Country in the World’ by the World Happiness Index for the eighth consecutive year. It is a land known for long winters and muted light, characteristics that we in the UK often attribute to melancholy. Finns themselves were initially taken aback by the accolade, as they are not exactly recognised for having cheery personalities. At surface-level it appears illogical. This then brings forward the question of how happiness is measured, which may be the key to how we attain the kind of fulfilment we are programmed to seek.

I recently travelled to Finland to understand what happiness really means - and this is what I discovered:

Nature is woven into the fabric of Finnish life

Following a three hour flight from London Heathrow to Helsinki Airport we arrived in the country’s capital before boarding a train bound for the Lakeland region, presenting serene landscapes of luscious leafy parks lining the tracks. We made the final part of our journey by coach, heading towards Lake Saimaa - the largest of Finland’s 188,000 lakes - where we would spend the next few days residing by and exploring its tranquil shores. The drive took us down narrow roads fringed by thick, theatrical forest until we reached our accommodation at the Kuru Resort, deep in the woods.

We stayed in sleek wooden villas with floor-to-ceiling windows where light flooded through, framing the vast, glistening water beyond saturated, lime green hues from the forest. The rooms held our own private sauna, wood burner and outdoor patio. The design was understated and minimalist - quiet luxury that emanated peacefulness and composure.

Dinner that first evening was a five-course tasting menu at the on-site restaurant, Solitary, with dishes comprised of beef tartare, venison steak, beetroot pasta, fresh cabbage, kale, dandelion and pane-cotta. The head chef and co-owner of the resort visited our table as each new plate was served, explaining his creative culinary process. He uses entirely organic produce, local to the land and seasonal. We discovered throughout the trip, that these reverent practices and mindful attitudes towards food and the environment is the norm. Menus are continually developed and shaped against what the land naturally offers.

Finns have a symbiotic relationship with nature, they live harmoniously with the environment which is inextricably linked to their levels of contentment and thus, happiness. Between 75 to 80 percent of Finnish land is some kind of green space - nature is an encompassing background to everyday life. The time we spend in nature has long been linked to quality of health and wellbeing as our exposure to the natural environment is scientifically proven to reduce cortisol levels - a stress hormone - and increase serotonin and endorphins which regulate mood and alleviate pain. Exposure to natural light and soil microorganisms foster feelings of calm and connectedness.

The World Happiness Index briefly defines ‘happiness’ as satisfaction with the way one’s life is going and how one feels about the course of their life. The mental and physical benefits that arise from nature are a recipe for contentment.

The following day’s activities included a morning of seal watching - sailing through Lake Saimaa in a wooden boat - before we fished for our lunch. Rainbow trout was prepared within a creamy soup-base and enjoyed around camp fire. We spent most of the trip outside breathing in the crisp air, to a soundtrack of rustling leaves, chirping birds and a quiet hush of wind.

Tourists often engage in activities that are a regular part of Finnish life, though they may be starkly different to their own everyday culture. I would usually visit warmer climates for vacation and spend the days sunbathing at a beach or socialising in a pub - experiences that rarely mirror how the locals live. By the end of this trip I felt completely renewed, I had gained energy. My time in Finland was all together languid and unhurried, but fulfilling nonetheless. Most of the day was spent in comfortable outdoor gear, there was no pressure to present in a particular way. The conditions made for seamless immersion into the moment.

Balance shapes the way Finns live day to day

“It’s a Finnish word but it’s used worldwide,” explained our guide Sara as we travelled to a communal sauna. The ancient term translates to ‘bath’ or ‘bathhouse’ and reflects the deep cultural significance of the sweat bath tradition in Finland. There are 3.3 million saunas in the country against a population 5.8 million, and most people use them multiple times a week.

We tried both wood-burning and electrical saunas, the former being most traditional. Even aesthetically, they are peaceful spaces - usually simple dark wooden confined structures. They heat the body to induce a deep sweat, which relaxes muscles, promotes detoxification, improves circulation, and cleanses the skin. It also aids in easing muscle and joint pain. It’s an almost sensual experience, solely dedicated to relaxation.

At points we combined this with cold water immersion, dipping into a neighbouring lake in between spouts of heat. Research suggests this practice significantly enhances mood and overall psychological wellbeing. It appears to activate traits associated with increased motivation and vitality, while diminishing feelings of distress and nervousness.

I felt electric after each session, high even. The sterile, icy atmosphere outside sharpened my mind and my skin felt firmer for weeks even after the trip. It is an instant mood-booster that also enables long-lasting physiological benefits when done regularly. It’s no wonder that Finns, who carry this out sometimes multiple times a week, are satisfied with life on a greater scale than the rest of us. Taking care of their mind and body is part of their routine, something that is easily forgotten, lower down on priorities and is not necessarily taught in UK culture.

What I learned in Finland is that happiness is not the fleeting joy of a perfect day or singular achievement, but something steadier, embedded in daily rhythms. It is supported by trust in society and nourished by nature itself. Finns do not chase happiness, they thread it into their lived through balance, present, and care for both body and environment. To visit is to be reminded that contentment is not about constant cheer, but about alignment - with the seasons, with community and with oneself. The main lesson I carried home: that happiness in its truest form is less about pursuit than about practice.

Where to stay

• Kuru Resort, where rates start from €283/£237 per night
• Elsanranta Saimaavillas, Sahanlahti Resort, where rates start from €350/£294 per night, in Lake Saimaa

What to Do Near Kuru

• Activities:

• Spot a Saimaa Ringed Seal on boat trip to Linnansaari National Park, a must for anyone wanting to spot the rare Saimaa Ringed Seal. A knowledgeable guide will know the best spots to find these curious creatures without compromising their habitat or privacy. Prices starts at €87pp
• Järvisydän Lake Spa, a spa is built in the middle of the natural rocks and the large windows overlooking Lake Saimaa. In the middle of the spa, you can find the heart of the lake - a heart-shaped natural pond. Prices starts at €33.90pp
• Morning yoga session at Kuru Resort's main building, designed to connect body and mind with the natural surroundings. Prices starts at €21pp
• A visit to Tertti Manor, functioning farm with its own herb garden and eco-certified forest, which has been owned by the same family since the late 1800’s. The stunning manor house serves as a hotel and delightful restaurant serving fresh, local food in historical surroundings
• Dine at:

• Restaurant Solitary, guided by a commitment to delicious food, a relaxed atmosphere, and great drinks. Its name reflects both its secluded location and its independent, distinctive approach to dining. Guests can expect not only high-quality cuisine but also warm, welcoming service in a unique and tranquil setting
• Piikatyttö Restaurant at nearby Järvisydän Resort, featuring a traditional open-fire "Fire Menu" showcasing seasonal, local Finnish ingredients
• Tertti Manor, functioning farm with its own herb garden and eco-certified forest, which has been owned by the same family since the late 1800’s. The stunning manor house serves as a hotel and delightful restaurant serving fresh, local food in historical surroundings

What to Do Near Elsanranta

• Activities

• Traditional Niskalampi sauna a wood-heated haven nestled beside a peaceful pond, offering an authentic and serene Finnish sauna experience
• Forest foraging and cooking experience with local host at Ukhua, who provide guided nature tours in Saimaa area, both on water and on land. Prices start at €185pp for the full 4hr experience
• A Finnish sauna with a twist - on a raft! An experience also hosted by Ukhua. Prices start at €185pp for the full 4hr experience
• Dine at:

• Visit Pistohiekka Resort, located in the Saimaa UNESCO Global Geopark, known for its beautiful lakeside views, sustainable design, and beachside architecture and enjoy a local lunch at Pistohiekka’s restaurant, featuring fresh regional cuisine and panoramic views of Lake Saimaa
• Dine at Restaurant Pajapirtti by Lake Saimaa, where food based on high-quality, fresh and local products and the dedication to ethical and responsible farming are the cornerstones of Sahanlahti dining. The open fire restaurant is a five-star D.O. Saimaa "We Support" restaurant

How to Get There

Finnair offers return fares from London Heathrow to Helsinki, starting at £167 in Economy Class and £495 in Business Class, including all taxes and charges. Finnair offers direct flights from London Heathrow, Manchester and Edinburgh to Helsinki all year round, with their Heathrow service operating up to six per day.