A Stroll With Stu: 6.5-mile walk around Rosedale takes in 'vivid' display of North York Moors heather
The Moorsbus season lasts until the end of October this year, whisking you away on weekends to corners of the North Yorkshire Moors that are normally inaccessible by public transport.
My starting point was on the side of the road on Blakey Ridge.
It’s not the easiest place to describe, but this is my best effort!
The bus from Danby passes the Lion Inn, then the turn-off for Farndale and after another mile or so, takes a shallow descent before bending slightly left and starting a slow climb.
As the gradient flattens at the start of a right bend, look out for a footpath sign on the left.
Leap up and press the bell, dropping things out of your pockets and shouting “here mate, here” at the driver.
He will be happy to get rid of you at a safe stopping point.
Now, this 6.5-mile walk through stunning moorland is very easy to follow – except for this first half mile.
The path from the green signpost runs slightly south of east and has largely been consumed by heather, but occasionally pops up to say hello.
Just keep trudging away from the road in the general direction of the arrow on the footpath sign.
It won’t take long before you arrive at the remains of the mine manager’s house that marks the site of Sheriff’s pit.
This was an ironstone mine that closed in 1911, transporting the ferrous goodies on the railway that will be your pathway for the next two miles.
A remarkable video exists on YouTube showing members of York Caving Club descending the old mine shaft that is now handily fenced off.
The ironstone industry on both sides of Rosedale was a huge operation, with over 2,000 people employed at any given time in the late 19th Century.
Over 12 million tons of ore was extracted and sent by rail to Teesside’s ironworks, after a smoky concentration process in the kilns on the valley side.
Several million pints of ale slaked thirsts, Health & Safety hadn’t been invented and drunken brawls and dreadful accidents were commonplace before peace was restored to the valley in 1926 when the last of the mines closed.
Now, there is just you, lots of sheep and a stunning view across the dale to the kilns on the east side.
Turn right along the old railway and follow it all the way to Chimney Bank on the road above Rosedale Abbey.
A 100ft chimney – an exhaust pipe for those ironstone kilns – stood here until 1972 when it was deemed a tad unsafe and was demolished, but the 1 in 3 hill still bears its name.
This bank is so steep that cyclists call it the chain breaker and it was deemed too steep even for the Tour de Yorkshire cycle race in 2015.
I once challenged my mate to drive up it in a railway van that struggled on hump-backed bridges, and he was so startled to witness the gradient, we had a long and unresolved discussion on how steam rollers laid the Tarmac in the first place.
The van, having shaken free several rivets, was later retired with honours.
Turn right along the road and follow it downhill for almost a mile.
After the road curves left, take a signed path on your right that soon drops down to cross a little beck, and back up the other side on a clear hardcore path.
This is proper moorland, and you have little time left to see the heather in all its purple glory.
Although it seemed a little early to me (late July), I’ve never seen such a vivid display.
The contrasting white patches of cotton grass, the blue skies with wisps of feathery cloud and the sheer solitude made for an idyllic little stroll.
Traverse a second beck, and after climbing back up the other side, you will soon reach a point where the wider track goes both right and straight ahead.
At that point, take a clear footpath leading left and follow this lovely route downhill past a couple of solitary pine trees.
By now, I was as hot as the donkeys that featured in my last stroll, and had slowed to a snail’s pace.
(At one point, I thought those trees were catching me up).
Gravity and the need to get to Hutton-le-Hole for the Moorsbus back to Danby, increased the impetus and I soon reached a Tarmac track that serves Spaunton Lodge.
A few hundred yards later, tack right onto a path that will take you down to the village.
Hutton-le-Hole is a pretty and popular village, with its cafes, pub, friendly sheep, museum, a little stream for the kids to play in and (for me) the bus back to the Duke of Wellington at Danby.
What a lovely day!